Before I embark on the next branch of the North East Kent Blighs, reaching back to the 17th and 18th century, it helps to understand the turbulent religious and political landscape which led to Canterbury becoming renowned for producing fine silk fabric and the impact of a French-speaking community, “The Strangers”, who came to make up well over a third of the population of Canterbury in the 18th Century.

The Political and Religious background:

The walled city of Canterbury was the ancient epicentre of religious life in England. Its awe-inspiring Cathedral, associated chapels and abbeys made it a place of Pilgrimage for centuries, the scene of royal Coronations and political intrigue, martyrdom and religious turmoil during the Reformation. Following the Civil War and Restoration of Monarchy, from the 1660s onwards, it settled down to concentrate on its commercial interests.

Canterbury always had a woollen weaving industry but this was significantly boosted by the arrival of around 150,000 Protestant refugees who fled the continent during religious purges by Spanish and French Catholic Monarchs in the mid 1500s and in latter half of 1600s. Only 30 years after Henry VIII broke with Rome, his daughter Elizabeth I symbolically gifted the use of part of the large undercroft (crypt) of Canterbury Cathedral itself, the foremost Cathedral in England, to the Protestant Walloons from Flemish Belgium, so they could worship freely as Calvinists in their own language. A small congregation still exists today.

In the late 1600’s, Sunday attendances could number more than 2000, especially after our own Civil War, from around 1650s when thousands more Huguenots from NE France arrived in Kent, many artisans, this time bringing with them their traditional skills and patterns woven in silk, joining their brethren in Canterbury.

Canterbury Silk Production:
From 1676 the Weavers Company fixed scale of payment and could become Freemen. But even so the French speaking enclave were required to regulate themselves and pay for the care of their own poor (ie. not to be a burden on the Parish) and yet still contribute to the parish funds. However, they proved themselves to be an industrious and self sufficient community with diverse occupations ranging from merchants to market gardeners.

In turn, they were accepted by the resident population as a commercial asset in Canterbury and from 1685, as more arrived and settled across England and Ireland and became integrated through marriage, sometimes their distinctive surnames were anglicised (eg Cross derived from De le Croix).

The newcomers became renowned for their entrepreneurial skills, in particular silk-weaving; there was increasing demand for Canterbury Silk from the London court, the aristocracy and the newly wealthy, for the lavish French style clothing, male and female, and in furnishings and upholstery. Ladies styles required voluminous, layered skirts supported by wide panniers and hooped petticoats; men wore patterned waistcoats and jackets.

Much silk fabric was woven at home by individual artisans and family, usually working with one or more looms. Each family produced their own unique pattern, handed down through the generations, in effect a “closed shop”. Entry into the business was possible, usually via marriage, but rare for the native residents. Some Masters could employ ‘Journeymen’ (qualified weavers) to run additional looms.

Preparation was meticulous, setting up for each new design could take 5 days, the apprentice “draw boy” tying the threads in advance, to produce only a yard’s output per day. Over the decades they produced a wide variety of fabrics to satisfy the changing market conditions and tastes. ....

Changing conditions: Imports, Exports, Wars, Fashion and Technology

Apart from the London-centric demand for silk at home, the silk industry relied on Trade. All raw silk and most ‘thrown’ silk was imported, first from the Levant but then India (through the East India Company) and Italy. Competition from the continent (France and Italy) was fierce and export to the colonies varied. The Weavers Company and the workforce (nb. in London/Spitalfields) fought hard for trade controls/embagos through Legislation nb. to survive imports of Calico.

Accordingly, for over two centuries, the number of looms fluctuated. In 1595 there were 800 Looms recorded. However, following a drop due to disruptions of the Civil War and Protectorate, by 1685 it recovered to 1000, falling rapidly down to 200 looms by 1695 due to foreign imports. This prompted a ban on imports in 1700 bring about a partial revival.

By 1710 only 334 looms and 58 master weavers remained. The Calico Acts 1721 outlawed the wearing of Calico (cotton from India), with fines and even physical attacks on women’s clothing!

Significantly, in the 1730’s a rift within the community meant a large number Canterbury Huguenots moved to Spitalfields, London, and thus provided opportunities for local boys like William Bly/Bligh, born 1722, to train.

From the 18th century, various wars and the changing preferences for foreign cotton sent the industry into a decline. Fashion trends became less flamboyant and used less material in Georgian times.

Also, there were technical advances. From 1785 there was was a revival as John Callaway pioneered the alternative, “Canterbury Muslin“, combining silk and cotton, at his mill at nearby Hackington. This provided employment for many struggling weavers/journeymen but the decline returned. In 1800 as the Jacquard templates first appeared, there were only 10 master weavers in Canterbury and by 1837 there were none.

Accommodation: At Home and Work

In Canterbury the Strangers seem to have been accepted into the community, often using or adapting existing housing stock, their premises identified by distinctive wide, leaded “Weavers Windows” stretching across the upper chambers, a few examples of which remain along with occasional remnants of “Dutch Gables” see http://www.canterbury-archeology.org.uk

Daylight was at a premium as seen by the large windows and for evening work candles would be lit. “Allumage Day” was the date when they started to use candles for evening work.

The Building restored as Weaving School & extended early 1900s – “The Looms Can be seen at Work”

Most famously, The 16th century Weavers House at Canterbury (above in 20th century, was revived as a Weavers School around 1900 and is now a restaurant) with its projecting windows is strategically located on the R. Stour. It gives us an idea of the type of the accommodation best suited to this home based industry, where the whole family would live and be employed in the various processes; throwing, spinning, dyeing, drawing and weaving.

So it is against this backdrop that William Bligh (Bap 1722) entered the trade becoming a Freeman in 1752. See Pt.2 to follow.

Further – Reading, illustrations and original sources

http://www.machadoink.com/The%20Weavers.htm

Strangers in Canterbury 1590-1790: The Huguenots follow the Walloons

http://www.frenchchurchcanterbury.org.uk/history/walloons–huguenots-in/index.html 

Information on Spitalfields, London where many settled there after leaving Canterbury. https://www.ourmigrationstory.org.uk/oms/huguenot-silk-weavers-in-spitalfields